KASHMIRI CUISINE
INTRODUCTION
The history of modern Kashmiri cuisine can be traced back to the fifteenth century invasion of India by Timur, and the migration of 1700 skilled woodcarvers, weavers, architects, calligraphers and cooks from Samarkand to the valley of Kashmir. The descendants of these cooks, the Wazas, are the master chefs of Kashmir. The ancient epic of Kashmir, namely the Nilmatapurana informs us that Kashmiris were heavy meat eaters. This habit persists in today's Kashmir.
Kashmiri cuisine has evolved over hundreds of years. The first major influence was the food of the Kashmiri Buddhists and Pandits, the Hindus of the valley. The cuisine was then influenced by the cultures which arrived with the invasion of Kashmir by Timur from the region of modern Uzbekistan. Subsequently, it has been strongly influenced by the cuisines of Central Asian, Persia, and the North Indian plains.
Kashmiris are hospitable by nature. They enjoy social life and mutual entertainment. This has been one main cause of the development of their culinary art. Different types of menus were also inspired by the cuisines of different rulers and visitors, who came in the past from Persia, Afghanistan and other places. Mughals especially had a great influence on the cooking of Meat Dishes and different Puloas. Emperors Jahangir and Shahjahan, with their lovely queens, their courtiers and kith and kin, made Kashmir their health resort and a place of sport, enjoyment, eating and drinking. Shahjahan used to visit Kashmir every summer and called it a Paradise on Earth. Jahangir's last wish, at his death, was 'Kashmir and Nothing else'.
Its salubrious climate, unrivalled and picturesque natural scenery, its invigorating, digestive, sweet and crystal-clear waters of springs and abounding streams, its beautiful lakes, majestic Pine and Deodar forests, and snow capped mountains, its breezy summers, flaming and blazing colourful and breathtaking autumns, the cool and calm grandeur of its winter snows, followed by charming flower-laden fragrant springs, all have made Kashmir a gourmet's heaven. Here amongst these blessing of Mother Nature, enjoying good and delicious spicy food, is a delighting desire of men, women and children alike.
CULINARY VARIATION IN KASHMIR:
The food of Jammu and Kashmir differs from region to region with the Hindus Dogras of Jammu being predominantly vegetarian; eat a staple diet of rice, wheat and beans. The Ladakhis eat rice, wheat, millet, locally produced vegetables and fruits, goat meat and dairy products made from yak milk. Kashmiri food is characterised by its vast array of dishes cooked over a long period of time in exotic spices. The seasons and availability of fresh produce dictates the ingredients, some of which are dried and used in the winter months. The Kashmiri cuisine is essentially meat-based while the eating habits of the Hindu and Muslim Kashmiris differ in its use of certain spices and the prohibition of beef for the Hindus.
There is another aspect to the food habits of the Kashmiri Hindus referred to as pandits. The kashmiri pundits though Brahmans have been meat eaters since the Vedic times, more so because the snowbound areas of the valley make it very difficult to cultivate the food. Pandits eat only lamb meat , ususlly cut into large pieces or chunks. Beef, pork, chicken are prohibited for them. The two most important saints of Kashmir, Lalleshwari and Sheikh Noor-ud-din Wali were vegetarians for spiritual reasons. Nevertheless, meat is often cooked in many Kashmiri Pandit festivals.
Some sample Kashmiri Pandit dishes include:
• Rogan Josh (lamb cooked in red sauce)
• Yakhni (lamb cooked in curd based sauce)
• Matschgand (minced lamb)
• Goshtaba (extra-minced meat balls cooked in creamy sauce)
• Qabargaah (Kashmiri Muslims refer to this as Tabakhmaaz; It is similar to Roasted Lamb)
• Syoon Pulaav (Meat Pulao)
• Modur Pulaav (Sweet Pulao, usually as a dessert)
• Lyodoor Tschaman (Cottage Cheese cooked in turmeric based sauce)
• Dum Oluv (Whole Potatoes cooked in Red Sauce)
• Muj Gaad (Fish with Radish)
• Nadir-Waangan (lotus stems with Brinjal)
• Nadir-Haaq/Gogji/Monji (lotus stems cooked with Spinach or Radish)
• Raazma-Gogji (Kidney Beans with Radish)
The highlight of Kashmiri cuisine is the formal banquet called "wazawan" that includes a spread of over 36 courses cooked all night long by a team of chefs called ‘wazas’ under the supervision of a ‘Vasta waza’ or master chef, descendants of the cooks from Samarkand. The food is characterised by thick gravies using liberal quantities of yoghurt, spices and dried fruits, and is usually cooked in ghee (clarified butter) or mustard oil. Saffron, the most expensive spice in the world, is grown locally. It is used extensively to flavour the pulaos (rice dish) and sweets. The popular dishes include the starter yakni, tabaq naat made of fried ribs, dum aloo (steam cooked potato curry), rogan josh made with mutton, gushtaba, a meatball curry and haleem made from meat and pounded wheat.
The essential Wazwan dishes include:
• Safed kokur or zafraan kokur
• Meth maaze
• Ristae
• Rogan josh
• Dhani phul
• Aloo bukhaar: chutney made with fresh plums, onions, sugar, lime juice and spices
• Gaade kufta
• Tabak maaz: Fried lamb ribs
• Daniwal korma: lamb in a yogurt-based gravy
• Aab gosht: Lamb curry cooked in milk
• Marcha-wangan korma
• Sheekh kabab: spicy ground lamb on skewers
• Gushtaab: Chopped lamb with spices cooked in oil, milk and curds
• Kebabs
A KASHMIRI KITCHEN
On normal days, the cooking, in both Hindu and Muslim homes, is mostly done on a Dan. A big dinner, called a Sal, or a Wazawan, is still cooked in a Vurabal which is an open-air kitchen. The fire-place, for this sort of cooking, is called a Vura. It is about 10' to 15 ' in length. In the shape of an above-ground drain, with air holes on both sides, it is built with bricks or stones. Fire-wood is used as fuel. Heat of such fires is very easily regulated for mass cooking. It is very convenient for deep and slow frying in big iron Cauldrons called 'Kadhais', as well as, for slow cooking and simmering, in earthenware pots especially. Here also the contents in cooking vessels, are conveniently watched and stirred with different types of wooden or metallic ladles. Such low-level Vura also facilitates the time to time addition of ingredients. Generally, an hour or so before serving most of the Dishes, the cooking vessels are removed from the Vura and are kept on charcoal or dry cowdung slow fires, for maturing of flavours and arriving at the right consistency of gravy, and also the desired 'texture'.
Among Kashmiri Pandits cooking of most Vegetarian and Non-vegetarian Dishes, is done mostly in pots made of baked clay. The pot is called a Deg, a Degul or a Leij according to its shape and size. Muslims cook generally in tinned copper pots.
A brief on the Kashmiri cooking utensils:
· Dan: On normal days the cooking in both Hindu and Muslim homes is mostly done on a dan, which is an oblong clay oven about 3ft by2ft in length and a foot and a half in height. It has a floor level hole, through which firewood is fed, and has usually three holes on the top on which food in different pots is heated or cooked. Nowadays, due to scarcity of wood fuel, LPG and kerosene stoves are commonly used.
· Trami: These are large brass plates used for serving food. A trami could be shared between four people in the event of feasts.
· Leij / Degul / Digcha: Among the Kashmiri pundits, most vegetarian and non – vegetarian dishes are cooked in pots made up of baked clay. The pot is called a Deg, a Degul or a Leij according to its shape and size. Cooking in these pots gives the Meat, Cheese, Vegetable and other Dishes a special aroma. Caking at the bottom of pots, and acidic and alkaline reactions with metals, are also thus eliminated. Pots used in Kashmir are generally round bottomed, to make stirring and turning of the contents easy, while cooking, and also while mixing Spices and Condiments, which are called Masala.
· Goshpar and kaen: These are a flat course stone and a wooden mallet made out of walnut wood which are used for pounding meat to affine texture, generally used for making Goshtabas and Rishtas. The wooden mallet is made up of walnut wood so that it does not splinter when it hits the stone.
· Krech: These are different kinds of wooden spoons and ladles used for turning the food in clay pots so that the base of the pots does not get scrapped.
· Khalur and dula: This is a stone mortar and a wooden pestle used for grinding chutneys and pastes.
· Samovar: This is a jug – shaped metallic pitcher used for brewing tea such as ‘kahwah’ and sheer chai. It has a long tube inside that is filled with charcoal, which keeps the tea in the pot brewing.
Kashmiri names of other Kitchen Implements
1. 'Athataech' - Cloth for wiying hands etc.
2. 'Bothlai' and 'Chhegla'- Pots for cooking rice etc.
3. 'Chalan' and 'Raemb' - Broad spatulas.
4. 'Chhan' - Colander or strainer.
5. 'Chhonp' - Churning stick.
6. 'Chonchi' and 'Krechh'- Ladles.
7. 'Chumta' and 'Sanaes'- Tongs for holding hot things and lifting hot pots.
8. 'Dakna'- Lids.
9. 'Damchula' - Iron charcoal stove.
10.'Dul' and 'Kond' - Metallic and deep wash basins.
11.'Hahkol' - Clay charcoal stove.
12.'Kafgir' - Perforated ladle.
13 'Kray' - Cauldron.
14.'Krochh' - Fire spoon.
15.'Taev' - Iron griddle.
16.'Masala' Vatur' - Box for keeping spices.
17.'Mujikond'- Grater.
18.'Sikh' - Skewer.
19.'Tilavar' and 'Krond' - Edible oil pot and its ladle.
20.'Voakhul' and 'Kajivadh' - Stone mortar and peste.
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